Day 19: Aging Ontario Wines

2002 Cabernet Franc

Daniel Lenko 2002 Cabernet Franc

At a recent Canadian wine party we attended in the Hamilton area, Daniel Lenko showed up with a couple of fantastic older vintages that reminded me that I needed to write a post about aging Ontario wines.

I keep hearing a statistic that most people consume their wine within 1 hour of purchase, and that’s understandable. But if you have any interest in collecting wine, and seeing what a few (or more) years will do to it, then there are lots of great Ontario choices.

Varieties that immediately spring to mind for aging are the big reds, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Merlot (or blends of same). They don’t need to be expensive bottles either; We were lucky enough to sample a 20+ yr old general list Cab Franc from Vineland estates in the last few years, and it was delicious. Generally with red wines I look for the combination fruit+tannins, although some with fruit+acid do well, too. The tannins will mellow over time, and it is always interesting to find prominent fruit in an old wine.

There’s also a surprising number of whites that age well too – Riesling, Chardonnay, and

2000 Gewurztraminer

Daniel Lenko 2000 Gewurztraminer

Gewürztraminer. Yes, I said Gewürztraminer! While I would never have thought of hanging onto a “Gew” for a long time, the 2000 vintage that Daniel Lenko brought to the party changed my mind…it was still fresh, with crisp acidity after all those years. With white wines, look for fruit + acidity. If the wine doesn’t have a lot of acidity, it will start getting soft, and maybe even a little flabby after only a few years (I’ve made this mistake with some Pinot Gris before). I’ve sampled 30 year old Rieslings that knocked my socks off – they definitely develop new flavours and characteristics; This is what makes wine so interesting!

I’m of the opinion that Vidal Icewine is best when it is 15+ yrs old. The sweet nectar turns to more caramel, marzipan, and dried fruit and i just find it so much more intriguing. I like to buy a bottle somewhat regularly just to make sure I will have some aged ones down the road.

So next time you pick up a bottle of wine and notice that it has the right combinations of fruit and tannin, or fruit and acidity, grab another bottle and experiment with it. Try it in 5 yrs or 10 yrs and see what time has done to it. It’s a cheap experiment that may just open your eyes!

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Day 18: #To Richard – Karlo Estates

Karlo Riesling

2010 Karlo Estates Lake on the Mountain Riesling

I couldn’t blog for 30 days without mentioning Karlo Estates, and specifically Richard Karlo. Richard was the first winemaker from PEC that I met, and definitely the first winemaker I ever sat at the dinner table with.

Richard’s passing last fall seemed so unreal, and unfair. At the time, Calvin Hanselmann‘s wife Dylan suggested that we do a virtual toast on Social Media, with the hashtag #ToRichard. It seemed such a fitting salute to someone who was forever pushing the boundaries in winemaking in the County.Karlo Estates Glass

Richard had a certain knack for connecting with people, and those that met him almost instantly thought of him as a friend. I’m glad that the hashtag has lived on. I don’t see it often, but when I do, a sense of warmth hits me and I hear Richard’s bellowing laugh and see his huge smile.

This post is definitely “#ToRichard”.

 

Karlo Estates 2010 Lake of the Mountain Riesling: Nose of pear, ripe apple, some white flower honey, hints of beeswax and petrol. After several years, it is showing some oxidative notes akin to bruised apple, and I can detect the slightest hints of the oak treatment at this time. The palate is sweet apple and peach/nectarine at first, turning to green apple and citrus that makes your mouth water. There’s a brilliant mineral streak that kicks in mid-palate right through the finish. Was $22 at the time of purchase.

After writing the review, I was looking through my notes, I found that I had also written about this wine for Spotlight Toronto back in 2012 here. It’s pretty similar except for the slight oxidation that I can detect now. I included a lot of details about how the wine was made, so I have pasted that review here:

With a start as an award-winning amateur winemaker, the change to professional was a natural progression for Richard Karlo. The Karlo Estates iconic red barn, stacked stone wall and footbridge are wonderful additions to a welcoming wine tasting that serves up County hospitality like no other. With partner Sherry Martin who looks after the social media and hospitality side of things, Karlo Estates has become a “must visit” stop on the tour. They have been slowly expanding over the last couple of years to keep up with demand, adding a large screen porch on the back and a mezzanine tasting area for tour buses.

2010 Lake on the Mountain Riesling: Richard likes to try different processes (he’s well known for his CHOA Chardonnay which adds a variety of non-traditional woods to the barrel) and he decided to experiment with this Riesling. With a wild ferment in 6 year old barrels and aged in even older oak, this Riesling shows more colour than most. The nose is a little more difficult to decipher, with melon, red apple, lemon, and as it warmed, mineral and light petroleum notes emerged. On the palate, the wine retains a crisp lemon-lime, nectarine, and green apple acidity despite the smooth and mellowing characteristics of the oak. The county minerality provides an ever-present backbone and the finish is long and mouth-watering.

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